Hi Jordan, i used melamine on mine and i can put it in a workmate or a vise, saves a lot of space and cheap to make!
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| Author: | Jordan Bunte [ Thu Jun 22, 2006 4:00 pm ] |
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Hey guys. I am wanting to build a router table in the next week or two, and want your opinions on using Phenolic as the table top (not just insert). I want to build something really nice, and was hoping you guys would throw some ideas out there. Also, I really like the steel table top at Lee Valley, but I think I would rather build something myself if I can save some money. Veritas Steel Router Table Top Let me know what you guys are using. Also, if you have pictures it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! Jordan |
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| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Thu Jun 22, 2006 5:00 pm ] |
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Hi Jordan, i used melamine on mine and i can put it in a workmate or a vise, saves a lot of space and cheap to make!
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| Author: | Kelby [ Thu Jun 22, 2006 6:01 pm ] |
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Jordan, I put a lot of time and thought into my router table, and I have been very happy with it. For what it's worth, here's my experience. I decided that I was willing to invest around $750 in a really good router table set-up, minus the router. Ultimately, I spent $250 of that on a Woodpecker PRL router lift, about $225 on an Incra fence system, and the remaining $275 or so in materials for the table itself. For the actual table top and base, I made it all myself, so the $275 went a long way. It's the sturdiest router table I have ever run across, and it makes even the most expensive commercial models I have seen feel like toys. Here's the finished product: 
I found that two things were very important in building the router table: (1) a top that is flat and will stay flat despite holding a heavy router and lift, and (2) a very substantial top and cabinet that will eliminate vibration. My router table top consists of two pieces of 3/4" baltic birch ply laminated together, then banded with 1-1/2"x1-1/2" oak. Then I glued a piece of formica (a cheap leftover scrap from the local builder's surplus store) to the top and the bottom, and chamfered the edges to reveal a bit of the oak. Underneath, I have additional 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" pieces of oak that stretch along each edge. It is still dead flat years after construction, even though I use a heavy 3-1/4 HP Porter Cable router and a fairly hefty Woodpecker PRL lift. The base is a cabinet built from 2"x2" oak with 3/4" baltic birch ply for the back and sides. Drawers on the front with pretty slick ball bearing drawer slides (included in the price I mentioned above). The router sets in its own enclosed section of the cabinet with a dust collection port made out of a toilet flange. I put a safety switch from Rockler on the outside so I don't have to reach inside the cabinet to turn the router on and off. 
Modesty aside, this router table is awesome. The only thing I'm not enthralled with is the lack of a dust collection port on the Incra fence; my only DC is under-the-table, and that doesn't get everything. But it does pretty well, and one of these days I'll get around to doing something about the fence. If I were doing it again, I'd probably take it a step further by building my own fence. The Incra is a great system, but more than I need, and not great at dust collection. Also, Woodpecker has come out with a new lift that is cheaper than the PRL and has a fantastic quick-lift feature. I don't remember what it's called, but I would definitely get it over the PRL if I were doing it again. (The PRL is a great lift, though.) With regard to the top, I don't know how sturdy a phenolic top would be. The Lee Valley steel top will obviously stay flat, but it's really not necessary to spend that much money since it's so easy and cheap to build a really sturdy top. I'm also not sure how easy it would be to install the lift of your choice. Of course, if you would rather spend more money buying a router table so you can spend more time building guitars, that's a legitimate approach too. But don't expect to get anything as sturdy as what you can build for a lot less. |
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| Author: | Miketobey [ Thu Jun 22, 2006 10:39 pm ] |
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Google "Jessem"-they do a phenolic table-I have one- all of their stuff is first class and customer service is excellent. |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Thu Jun 22, 2006 10:58 pm ] |
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I basically built an aluminum version of the Lee Valley table a few years back when I first saw it - having had other tables homemade where the centering of the bit really depended on how well you could drill the router base mounting holes (only really crucial when you use template guides, which I do a lot), the thought of having the ability to adjust the router center made a whole lot of sense. Plus the router goes in and out of the table in about 15 seconds. And when I buy a new bigger router, I can easily adjust the guides to fit it. |
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| Author: | Mark Tripp [ Fri Jun 23, 2006 12:15 am ] |
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Hey Jordan: I bought a table, fence, and insert from Rockler and built a heavy duty stand for it. But you could easily fabricate somthing out of MDF or Melamine. Just make sure it's flat, and the fence is perpendicular to the table. Heck, for years, I used just a 3/4 in piece of MDF, with the router screwed directly into it (No insert plate), and a jointed 2x4 for a fence. Crude, but it worked! 'Course I was not building insruments at the time. -Mark -Mark |
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| Author: | Jordan Bunte [ Fri Jun 23, 2006 3:39 am ] |
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Thanks for posting with such good info. You all have unique ideas and make them work for you! I really like the design of the JessEm, but its a little more than I want to spend (once you add everything up---table, lift, plate, fence). Honestly, the Lee Valley may be worth the money to me since it comes with everything but the stand (and fence is optional) and sells for $169. I want to get the best "bang for the buck", so building my dream table isn't an option at the moment. MDF is the least expensive, of course, but am afraid it wouldn't be stable in the long run. One concern I have with that is something Kelby touched on...vibration. Do you think this would be an issue with the Lee Valley? The steel is 3/16" thick, so I'd imagine it works well if the stand is "up to snuff." Keep the ideas coming---thank you again! Jordan |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Fri Jun 23, 2006 4:32 am ] |
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MDF is plenty stable material as long as you don't get it wet and/or seal it off with good primer. It won't warp, twist, bend, etc. I'm planning on making my router table using some MDF, some ply, and either some formica or a sheet of melamine. |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Fri Jun 23, 2006 5:05 am ] |
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Jordan, have you priced phenolic? I'm guessing that you'd be pretty close to the $169 just for the top material. That stuff is EXPENSIVE! As Mattia said, MDF is very stable if you treat it right, avoiding moisture. It also doesn't do too well with long spans and a lot of weight. But that's not an issue here. Two pieces of 3/4" mdf will be way more than enough stability for this purpose. And the weight will absorb a lot of vibration. I'm pretty sure it will be more heavy than a metal top. Or at least close and much less expensive. |
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| Author: | Mark Tripp [ Fri Jun 23, 2006 5:12 am ] |
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What Mattia and Paul said. MDF will be plenty stable for this. You could use MDF, buy a good heavy aluminum plate, build your own fence and stand, and probably get it done for under $100. -Mark |
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| Author: | CarltonM [ Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:00 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Pwoolson]MDF is very stable if you treat it right, avoiding moisture. It also doesn't do too well with long spans and a lot of weight.[/QUOTE] If you want to be sure about stability, you can run a couple of "braces" under the table along its interior length, flanking the router. Cheap and easy insurance! |
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| Author: | Jordan Bunte [ Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:18 am ] |
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Thanks for responding again. I priced Phenolic...its definitely expensive....one of the things I was thinking about was to make a top out of 3/4" MDF and a 1/4" phenolic sheet 16X24" for ~$30. Eh...who knows...I may try to make one out of MDF to see how it turns out since its so cheap. Carlton: What kind of braces? X-braces? 
What would you guys use to seal it properly? I live in Houston, TX where it is extremely hot and humid. Jordan |
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| Author: | Miketobey [ Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:46 am ] |
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I spend way too much on tools. Yes, the Jessem is expensive. You'll never have to upgrade. On the other hand you would not be disappointed in the Lee Valley. You might want to consider the Lee Valley kit( the one with the steel plate-the $30 phenolic will flex with some routers;Bosch 1618 eg.) since the router attachment is so versatile and then make your own fence and table surface. I've made two router tables out of 3/4 x 2 glued and screwed Baltic Birch ply with 1/4" thick aluminum angle stiffeners and Eagle America Lucite plates. These were gifts for friends and they have held up well. Made fences from the same material,faced with self-stick slippery stuff.Put "T"tracks in them and used jig knobs to position the fence.Note- my cussin' factor has dropped a whole bunch with the Router Lift FX. MT |
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| Author: | Don A [ Fri Jun 23, 2006 12:05 pm ] |
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Howdy Jordan. I can't give any better advice than you have already gotten. However, you might want to check out the following sites that are pretty much router specific if you haven't already. Woodhaven and Woodpeck Let us know what you finally come up with. |
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| Author: | mikev [ Fri Jun 23, 2006 1:27 pm ] |
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lots of great advise here as usual from the olf, one thing I want to add, phenolic is nasty stuff to breath. As with anything we are machining dropper safety is manditory, but out of all the options listed above I believe phenolic is far and away much worse for you..Take the proper precautions. Mike |
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